Freud

Freud, S. (1899) The Interpretation of dreams


'That source is the unconscious. I believe that the conscious wish becomes effective in exciting a dream only when it succeeds in arousing a similar unconscious wish which reinforces it. From the indications obtained in the psychoanalysis of the neuroses, I believe that these unconscious wishes are always active and ready to express themselves whenever they find an opportunity of allying themselves with an impulse from consciousness, and transferring their own greater intensity to the lesser intensity of the latter.[22] It must, therefore, seem that the conscious wish alone has been realized in the dream; but a slight peculiarity in the form of the dream will put us on the track of the powerful ally from the unconscious.'  



Barnard, M. (2007) 'A tale of inscription/fashion statements', in Sawchuck, K. (ed.) fashion theory a reader. London: Routledge, 476.

Barnard, M. (2007) 'A tale of inscription/fashion statements', in Sawchuck, K. (ed.) fashion theory a reader. London: Routledge, 477.

Barnard, M. (2007) 'A tale of inscription/fashion statements', in Sawchuck, K. (ed.) fashion theory a reader. London: Routledge, 477.

This piece of text again explores the idea that a womans obsession with style allows the idea of materialism so be portrayed. The obsession women have with the way in which they look allows more controversial symbols to filter through and become acceptable, capitilism allows the exploitation of certain symbols, including the christian cross.

Recycling in fashion

Evans, C. (2000.)Yesterday’s Emblems and Tomorrow’s Commodities: The return of the repressed in fashion imagery today. Fashion Cultures: Theories, explorations and analysis. (Ed). Bruzzi S., Gibson, London:Routledge Press. p106

 

Fashion is known for is resurrection of previous iconic imagery, it almost recycles previous fashion statements, changing them in ways which  suit the current cultural climate.

The objective of fashion

Barnard, M. (2007) 'A tale of inscription/fashion statements', in Sawchuck, K. (ed.) fashion theory a reader. London: Routledge, 476.

Madonna and fashion

Barnard, M. (2007) 'A tale of inscription/fashion statements', in Sawchuck, K. (ed.) fashion theory a reader. London: Routledge, 479-480.

This piece of text explains why fashion can be taken to such extremes, it is not linking that person to the object and tying them to that. As Madonna took the use of Christianity in her music and style to the extreme it allowed an open door to the fashion industry to play upon this and allow consumers to be a part of this rebellious act without feeling any connection to Christianity.

From Crucifixes to Fishnet Boots: Versace’s Gothic Collection at Milan Fashion Week

(2012) From Crucifixes to Fishnet Boots: Versace’s Gothic Collection at Milan Fashion Week. International Business Times. 25th Feb.

Donatella Versace's runway show featuring the luxury label's Autumn/Winter 2012 collection was all about gothic glamour, cutting-edge techniques and high fashion.

With models in leather bustier dresses, Byzantine crucifixes and fishnet boots, the strong heavy metal and futuristic feel of the show intrigued as well as captivated the on-lookers.

The collection showcased at the Milan Fashion Week featured mini dresses, backless creations and coats with the colour scheme being mostly black and white. However, there were sudden splashes of vibrant shades as well like orange and yellow.

The short skirts and dresses were often paired with high-heeled boots covered with beads and crystals and paired with fishnet boots.

The collection has also been compared to Stieg Larsson's Lisbeth Salander looks in the "Girl with the Dragon Tattoo."

The Wall Street Journal reported that "with the bangs on the models' haircuts and their dark-rimmed eyes, the first part of Donatella Versace's runway show looked as though she had hired a legion of taller versions of Lisbeth. Then she delved further into the character and drew out her steely inner armor, creating a final series of dresses and gowns of chain mail."

However, the collection was not merely a version of Gothic fashion often adopted by teenagers but a was a glamorous version that could make a bold statement at any red carpet by the likes of Rooney Mara, Angelina Jolie and Julia Stiles.

Discourse of the Chistian Cross

The Christian cross is a representation of the crucifixion of Jesus Christ. Pre-Christianity and since very early in humanity the cross is still thought to have held the discourse of religiosity due to its use to create fire, the god of fire, the god of sun. It is seen as a powerful symbol which has occurred in religion repeatedly. Today to a Christian the cross is seen as a way of remembering the love and compassion Jesus showed sacrificing himself for humanity. According to Christianity Jesus died upon a cross therefore making it quite a powerful respected symbol to that religion.

Lady Gaga Judas

This Lady Gaga video is filled with religious symbolism. In the video Gaga is portraying the role of Mary Magdalene whom was a loyal follower of Jesus. In this video Gaga represents Magdalene as more of Jesus's lover which would be heavily frowned upon by Christians as it misrepresents the bible. Although the music video could be seen as almost a biblical story, exploring the idea of how Judas the disciple betrayed Jesus and how Magdeline was stoned to death, Catholics condemned the video and Gaga for taking this religious story and retelling it in such an extreme way.
The video shows Jesus as a biker style man wearing a leather jacket and riding a motorbike, to link these two together to a catholic would be the ultimate sin due to the connotations of a biker, (living as far from a christian life as possible). However this could also be seen as trying to teach the modern generation, who are exposed to alternative lifestyles everyday, some form of biblical information. 

Dolce and Gabbana Fall/Winter 2014

Massimo Di Felice (February 24, 2013) Available at: http://www.swide.com/photo-gallery/dolce-and-gabbana-womenswear-collection-fw-2014-fashion-show-backstage-photogallery/2013/02/24/1-27 (Last accessed: 28/9/14)

Anna Wintours first Vogue

In 1988 Anna Wintours first volume of Vogue edited by her was released. The front cover included an image of an Isreali model, Michaela Bercu, wearing a Christian Lacroix jacket with a giant bejeweled cross embellished upon it. Anna Wintour declared this as the end of Vogue's old hieratic formalism.

This is a major moment in the history of fashion and in the use of religious symbolism in fashion. 

I have decided to narrow my research down to focusing on the christian cross as a religious symbol this allows me to look more in depth at the origin or this being used and how it has been effected by its exposure.
Things to look at:
Young Madonna
The 80s
Punk
Lady Gaga Judas
Vivienne Westwood
Tattooing

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood is an English fashion designer who's linked with punk fashion. Her logo is an orb with the christian cross on the top (as seen below). 

Burqa Swag

Mahdawi, A.(2013)Rihanna, Lady Gaga and what's really behind burqa swag. Available at:http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2013/oct/24/rihanna-lady-gaga-burqa-swag Last accessed(24/9/14)

Rihannas controversial stunt which involved wearing her interpretation of a Burqa to a mosque in Abu Dhabi is another example of religious iconography being exploited this time by a celebrity. This obviously got a lot of attention, good and bad. It obviously brought the burqa into the public eye allowing it to be seen in a different light to the usual headlines of its controversy in school. However due to the sexualisation of the burqa this is going massively against the whole religion causing the religious icon to be watered down stripping it of its true meaning. A younger generation who look to celebrities such as Rihanna as a role model will see this and view the burqa as more of a fashion symbol than vital item in the Islamic religion. Celebrities play a big role in fashion being translated to the high street, if someones sees their favourite celebrity wearing something, they want to wear this too. Most fashion pieces have a history, they will have started as a major piece at a fashion show and eventualy be watered down for the everyday person on the highstreet, most of the time the every day person would have no idea of this. This again links in with the theme of religious symbols being used in fashion, most people will look beyond the symbol and buy the item simply because it looks nice, they have seen it in a magazine or they have seen a celebrity wearing it.

Dolce and Gabbana

One fashion brand which is well known for its use of religious iconography is Dolce and Gabbana I had a look on their website and came across a current jewellery collection which is based solely upon the Christian cross.

http://www.dolcegabbana.com/jewellery/collections/collection-two/ (Last Accessed:4/8/14)

Highstreet shopping.

I spent a couple of hours online shopping across many well known highstreet stores. Here are some examples of religious iconography I came across...

                                                                        Topshop

 

Urban Outfitters

Useful Links

http://birthdaymagazine.co.uk/2014/01/28/on-appropriation-irksome-or-enlightening/
http://unwrinkling.com/my-cross-to-wear/

Grundy, T. (2013) Archbishop of Canterbury: The cross has become a fashion symbol. Available at: http://www.religionnews.com/2013/12/02/archbishop-canterbury-cross-become-fashion-symbol/ (Accessed: 4/8/14)

“For those early Christians it was a badge of shame,” Welby said. “Today, it is more commonly seen as a symbol of beauty to hang around your neck. As a friend of mine used to say, you might as well hang a tiny golden gallows or an electric chair around your neck.”

This is a quote from the Archbishop of Canterbury is a religious viewpoint on the commercialisation of the christian cross. From a Christians perspective the cross is a sign of Jesus and his sacrificial crucifixion hence the Archbishops comparison to wearing a necklace made of other forms of execution. This comparison also reveals that the Christian cross and maybe even Christianity is becoming increasingly unimportant in modern day society, causing us to be desensitised from the true meaning behind the symbol.

Working Title

To explore how religious symbols have been exploited and commercialised by the world of fashion.